The ǀAi-ǀAis/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park is not for sissies — but so worth it

Straddling  the border between South Africa and Namibia, the ǀAi-ǀAis/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park is a place of spectacular harshness, haunting silence and mesmerising, magical views.

It’s not somewhere you stumble on accidentally but rather a journey that requires intention, respect and humility. Planning and preparation, time and a sense of adventure are necessities. 

The park is not traversable without a 4x4 vehicle. The roads are rugged and extreme and the driving demands patience, persistence and concentration. The air is hot, dry and dusty, especially if you go in October or November. This is not a trip for everyone, but for those brave enough to dare it, there is nothing like it. 

If it’s isolation you’re after, the Richtersveld provides it.

After travelling north from Springbok to Vioolsdrif, we took the road less travelled — the dramatic Helskloof Pass. The road is rough and carrying an extra spare wheel is advisable. We stopped to look at some rock paintings and were alone looking across the bare landscape.

Later we stopped to build our own rock tower as a “we were here” addition to the thousands of others that tell a story of those who have navigated this pass. 

Setting foot in this park provides a glimpse into the history of the land, and if the volcanic rocks could speak, they would have thousands of tales to tell.

We arrived at Sendelingsdrift camp, just inside the main gate, after a long day’s travelling, feeling hot and stiff from the bumpy drive. The chalets are well-equipped with fridges and even DStv. There is a swimming pool and access to the Orange (Gariep) River, where you can have a much-needed cooling swim before lighting the braai. It’s also a good stop for fuel and there is a small shop that sells some vegetables and fresh bread to stock up on before entering the heart of the park.

While this is a dry part of the Northern Cape, when you stop and look closely you will find the most beautiful succulents in fresh pink and white — as if someone spilt paint onto the sandy canvas that covers this wild terrain.  

Among the quiver trees and Pearson’s aloes, this spot has diverse plant life found nowhere else in the world. The “halfmens” (half person in Afrikaans, Pachypodium namaquanum) that stand high up looking over the landscape are considered an iconic feature. Endemic to this part of the world, this tree, also known as the elephant’s trunk or ladies’ legs, has stem tips that, curiously, always curve to the north.

At first sight, it’s easy to assume there is no animal life there, but look closely and you’ll discover lizards, beetles and other insects going about their business. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn’t seen it, but small wildlife also manage to find food and water in this arid land. 

HAND OF GOD 

Our journey took us past the Hand of God, a 2m-high impression in a rock that resembles a giant handprint. These formations are estimated to date back 700-million to 1-billion years. Not far away, we also stumbled on formations that looked like a foot.

After more hours of driving through desert sands, passing Die Toon (the Toe) mountain, which looks like a giant’s toe, huge boulders enclosed us. We’d reached the Kokerboomkloof campsite, which has some of the best rock formations in the park and is worth the difficult drive. At camp, we watched as the sunlight washed over, casting quiver-tree shadows that crept in all directions. Under the night sky, you feel as though you're the only person for miles.

After a lengthy drive on sandy, rocky roads, Tatasberg Wilderness Camp welcomed us with a luxury we were longing for in this rugged terrain — solar power and hot water. Its chalets overlooking the Orange River have fully equipped kitchens, bedrooms, and bathrooms with showers. It is worth spending a night here to “freshen up”, particularly after Kokerboomkloof, where there is no power and limited access to water.

Closer to the river, at the popular De Hoop campsite, we managed to find a secluded spot with abundant bird life. It’s worth packing binoculars to properly spy on the kingfishers that dive into the river at unbelievable speeds. I could have sat for hours, mesmerised by the heron standing waiting for its catch while the fish eagle pierced the silence with its call. The inquisitive monkeys that come to check out the campsites need some management but also provide entertainment during the day. At night the jackals sneak around looking for scraps to eat.

Each day brings some adventure: braving the river rapids on our tubes or dropping lines in to try our luck with the yellow fish. At the end, our skin feels dry and cracked, like a quiver tree, our hair has been through a sand blaster and our feet look like fossilised rocks. But our hearts and minds feel free and filled with memories.

GETAWAY AT A GLANCE

ABOUT THE PARK: The 6,045km² ǀAi-ǀAis/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park straddles the border between South Africa and Namibia. It was formed in 2003 by combining Namibia’s ǀAi-ǀAis Hot Springs Game Park and South Africa’s Richtersveld National Park. 

With less than 50mm of rain each year, this is the driest part of the Northern Cape yet the Richtersvel side is home to 30% of all South Africa’s succulent plant species. 

The Richtersveld is regarded as the only arid biodiversity hotspot on Earth. It is also on Unesco's World Heritage List for its cultural value, as a site that “sustains the seminomadic pastoral livelihood of the Nama people, reflecting seasonal patterns that may have persisted for as much as two millennia in Southern Africa”.

GETTING THERE: Sendelingsdrift is the main South African entrance to the park. The closest commercial centre is Springbok, about 300km away. Sendelingsdrift is a border post and point of entry to the Namibian side of the park. Border crossings are by pontoon across the Orange (Gariep) River.

Visitors must report to reception at Sendelingsdrift, just inside the main gate. A detailed guidebook is available here.

RATES:  The daily conservation fee for South Africans (with ID) is R74 per adult, R37 per child. Members of SANParks’ loyalty programme WILD do not pay conservation fees.

ACCOMMODATION: There are seven camps on the South African side. Camping is R275-R300 (low season to high season). There are chalets at Sendelingsdrift, Tatasberg and Gannakouriep priced R1,070-R1,320.

For more, see the website.